Will a smart lock fit your door?

Most US doors take a standard deadbolt, and most smart locks are built for it. So the usual answer is yes. Returns come from the doors that sit slightly off that standard. You can find out which you have before you spend anything.

Some links below are affiliate links. Buy through one and we earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you.

A tape measure held across a door edge against an existing deadbolt
Two minutes with a tape settles what a returns label otherwise settles for you.

Door thickness

Measure the edge of the door. Standard US exterior doors are 1 3/4 inches and most locks cover a range around that, but thicker custom or solid doors go past it and need an extension kit that is often sold separately. This is the measurement that most often turns a purchase into a return, and it takes ten seconds.

Backset

From the edge of the door to the center of the round hole the deadbolt sits in. It is almost always 2 3/8 or 2 3/4 inches, and most full-replacement locks ship with an adjustable latch that does both. Worth confirming rather than assuming, because a lock without an adjustable latch will simply not reach.

Cross bore

The diameter of that round hole through the face of the door. The common size is 2 1/8 inches. An older or non-standard door with a smaller bore needs drilling out, which is a real job on a metal or fiberglass door and not a five-minute one.

Clearance around the thumbturn

This is the one nobody measures and the one that defeats retrofit locks. The housing is bigger than the thumbturn it replaces, so it needs clear space around it. A deadbolt set close to the door edge, a decorative escutcheon, deep trim, or a door that opens against a wall can all leave it fouling something. Hold a fist over the thumbturn; if that is tight, so is the lock.

A lock is not a door, and a door is only as good as its frame

A smart lock changes how the bolt is operated. It does not change how strong the door, the frame or the strike plate are, and on most houses the frame gives before the lock does. If you are upgrading for security rather than for convenience, longer strike screws into the framing timber cost very little and address the part that gives way first.

Retrofit smart lock on the inside face of a front door
Retrofit

Yale Approach retrofit smart lock

Replaces the thumbturn on the inside of the door and leaves the deadbolt, the cylinder and your keys exactly as they are. Nothing changes on the outside, which is what makes it the workable option in a rental and on an off-center or non-standard bore. Measure the clear space around the existing thumbturn before ordering, because that is the one thing it does need.

Keypad deadbolt with Camelot trim on the outside of a front door
Full replacement

Schlage Encode smart Wi-Fi deadbolt, Camelot trim

A full-replacement deadbolt with a keypad on the outside, for when you actually want to stop carrying a key. This is the type that cares about measurements. Check yours with a tape first: door thickness 1 3/8 to 1 3/4 inches, backset 2 3/8 or 2 3/4 inches. No hardwiring, but consider whether a storm door will still close over the escutcheon.

Retrofit lock body being fitted inside a door, key still in the outside cylinder
Retrofit

Philips Wi-Fi smart retrofit lock

The same retrofit idea from a second maker. Thumbturn housings differ in size, and the one that clears your trim may not be the first you try. Built-in Wi-Fi, so it wants a usable signal at the door.

Usually a retrofit lock, yes, because nothing on the outside of the door changes and the original hardware goes back in minutes. Ask anyway, in writing, and keep the parts you removed. The lease page covers the same ground for the doorbell.
With a retrofit lock, yes, because the cylinder is untouched. With a full replacement, no, unless you have it rekeyed to your existing key, which a locksmith can often do.
Nearly every one takes a physical key or has an external contact you can jump from a battery. Check which before buying, and check it before you need it, because reading the manual on a doorstep in the dark is the worst version of finding out.
Some connect over Wi-Fi, some over Bluetooth to your phone, some through a separate bridge. If your front door already has a weak signal, that is worth settling before you choose, and it is the same problem the doorbell has.